Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Blog 9

In this episode:

Matt buys motorcycle

Matt gets stuck in the UK

Matt visits Salisbury, Cardiff, Bath, Oxford, London and Canterbury

A guy Matt meets injures himself severely whilst self promoting

Various churches, roman things and Englishness.





Canterbury - I lie in possibly the most lovely hostel I have ever seen. I have seen a lot of hostels. This place is run by a family who live here and the hostel feels like an extension of their home. At 6:30 tonight I am going to help the lady of the house cook Romanian goulash, which will then be served to all the poor travellers stranded here in Canterbury due to the volcanic eruption in Iceland. I was supposed to stay here for one night, but after an hour (and a shower in the immaculate bathroom) I extended my stay.


I did manage to buy the motorcycle, with a ridiculous wad of British Pounds. Interestingly, pounds are quite tall and therefore do not fit in my wallet. I can't imagine what the British were thinking when they made the twenty. 'I do say, if we don't make them excessively tall, the commoners will not be able to read the print.' Or perhaps this is a British attempt to maintain the value of the pound. Surely, the bigger it is the more it is worth. Needless to say, I am both relieved and concerned at the behaviour of my Australian banks. I took out thousands of dollars a day in a foreign country from random ATMs and neither bank batted an eyelid.


The bike is spectacular. Apart from a squeaky brake, it is altogether the most perfect bike I have ridden. So far I have managed to put another 700 or so miles on the clock and plan to get a few more under the belt before the next two months are up.


After leaving Eastbourne and saying goodbye to Barry I headed for Salisbury and Stonehenge. Stonehenge is far better in the pictures, so don't plan a trip to the UK just to see it. Salisbury, like Oxford and Canterbury is absolutely delightful. I am overcome with the desire to use words like delightful, quaint, smashing, jolly good and just grand to describe these places because they just ooze British-ness. So feel free to plan a trip to see these. Just don't expect much from the stones.


The lonely planet guide sums up Cardiff perfectly. 'Poor Cardiff. There's nothing wrong with it but there's nothing to keep you there.' At least I had two good friends from home, Dave and Owen, and some spectacular weather. We played football in the park in the sunshine and the boys told me to enjoy the three days of sunshine Cardiff gets each year. Whilst there I took a trip to the breathtaking Brecon-Beacon national park and stopped breathing due to the spectacular scenery. See pictures for proof.


Bath is famous for having baths. Seriously. The Romans rocked up in the first century and found a natural hot spring. Romans love bathing, so they probably had quite the conniption fit over this site. Millions of litres per day of forty degree water gushing up from the ground, a roman's version of heaven. Within a couple of hundred years it was a major Roman tourist destination and they had built a ridiculously large bathing complex. When the Romans left in the fifth century, the place was allowed to go to ruin, with only one bath remaining in use. The rest of the complex was built upon and it wasn't until residents of nineteenth century Bath complained about leaky basements that the complex was uncovered again. This led Bath to become fashionable again, and people such as Jane Austen spent much time here. The concept of 'polite society' and it's associated rules was formulated here. Enough history.


Oxford has a university in it.


In London I got a parking ticket then went to Lord's. Lord's was better. At the lunchtime interval of the game between Glamorgan and Middlesex the thousand or so spectators were allowed to walk onto the field! 'What wonderful fun' said a quite besotted Matt. Glamorgan won by 78 runs and in doing so became the first Glamorgan team to win at the ground in fifty years. Good form Welsh boys.


After tagging along to a benefit party for a microfinance organisation with a guy I met at my hostel, I was witness to his untimely demise. He rose to address the crowd about his perfectly wonderful business that provides Londoners with a list of positive ways to entertain themselves (volunteering, benefit gigs etc) but the stool on which he rose did not appreciate his speech. He fell and I spent the rest of the night tending to his brokenness.


Tomorrow I head back to Eastbourne to pick up the bike paperwork that has kept me stuck in the UK and then I head to France. I should be speaking poor French in a few days. Tres bien.


Until next time, tally ho!

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Blog 8

In this episode...

  • Smoked dog's head
  • Halong Bay is officially misty
  • Easter in the communist heartland
  • Special Testicular Massage
  • Arriving in the UK
  • British Bureaucracy and banking issues


Ok, so nobody wants to hear about poochy getting eaten, but it's the truth. According to Sun, our Vietnamese guide in Sapa the poorer families usually keep some dry meat hanging in their kitchen just in case visitors turn up. If important visitors turn up and there is no meat left, the puppy can sometimes get the chop. 'It's ok,' says Sun, we put lots of spices with it. At Sapa market we encounter a few tables selling all parts of the dog, including the good old noggin. Poor puppy. I bought a jacket instead.


The hill tribes of Sapa are interesting, but it is hard to shrug the feeling that much of the culture is a show. That said, if people perform for tourists all day every day then that really is real life! The women wear colourful clothes but spend much of the day repeating their one English phrase 'you buy from me'.


Back in Hanoi it was time for Easter. Hanoi is the heartland of Vietnamese communism and as such I expected Catholicism to be in the bad books. On the contrary, unlike the Chinese and Russians, the government has never restricted religious freedom and the Catholic community is thriving. A beautiful passion play on the steps of the massive cathedral greeted me on Friday and a glorious mass on Sunday topped off a great easter. Of course, when we all stood up to start mass I did feel a little out of place, being a clear six inches taller than the entire congregation.


Halong bay is a UNESCO listed world heritage site, massive rock structures emerging from endless miles of blue water. That is what it looks like in summer. In winter the scene looks ghostly, the rock forms emerging from dense mist. Still beautiful, but not entirely what we had expected. Check photos on the internet for what it should look like.


With our time together over, I said goodbye to the crew and flew to Bangkok for a two day stopover. My hotel, a beautiful place run by the most helpful woman ever, was just across the road from an establishment offering 'special testicular massage'. It would seem that patpong, where I was situated, is the centre of all that makes Bangkok infamous. Massage is not massage here.


More interesting was the 'red shirt' protest I encountered in the city centre. This group is protesting against alleged government misuse of public money and succeeded in shutting down Bangkok airport last year. This time they just shut down two train stations and a shopping centre. Slipping, I think.


I am now in the UK, staying with a friend of the Haywoods, Barry Anderson. He has been a wonderful help, espescially give quite a bit has gone pear-shaped. I managed to find a great motorbike but I have to wait ten days before I'm allowed to drive it out of the UK. This means I need to tour the UK in the cold rather than the warmth of July. Oh well. Then my credit card did not work in the UK machines... boo. I have to pay for the bike in cash. Unfortunately I took out my daily limit too late in the day so now I must wait until late today to withdraw more. In addition to this, it is nigh on impossible to get insurance as a foreigner, but this is a requirement of driving in the UK and of entering any other country in Europe. I have basically lied and claimed I am a UK resident. Barry says that I am residing at his place temporarily so it is not really a lie. All in all, I probably wouldn't have bought a bike if I'd known it was going to be this much trouble. I'm committed now so here goes.


On the up side, I'm heading off to visit the Welsh boys tomorrow, Dave and Owen. Blokes at cricket would remember them as being top guys, if not terribly good at cricket.


I'm now on a train to London, £970 short for my bike, hoping that at 2pm NAB will let me get more money out. If not...


All is well.


Matt.